Showing posts with label Chef Mike Isabella. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chef Mike Isabella. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Pepita Cantina - Not Just Margaritas

Pepita Cantina
4000 Wilson Blvd.
Arlington, VA 22203
703-312-0200
www.PepitabyMIC.com
I'm a fan of small restaurants. I find that that when you aim small, you miss small, which means that you're more likely to place your shots in the ten-ring. Pepita exemplifies that philosophy. It's a small place, with a small menu, but it's a bulls-eye.
Start out with the guacamole. Smooth, yet chunky. Home-made thick chips that don't break when you scoop the guac, and plenty of flavor.
Tacos are the main lunch fare here. I tried three including the smoked carnitas, the cabra diabla, and the taco de lengua. The cabra and lengua were my favorites. The tongue (lengua) was super-tender and flavorful, while the cabra, which is goat, had a sophisticated heated finish. No quick burn here, just a smooth, enjoyable heat. The smoked carnitas was good as well, but the other two provided the unique flavors I've come to know, expect, and love from Mike Isabella Concepts.
Here's a shot of the chunky Tuna Ceviche.
The quesadilla was a thing of beauty as well. Great flavors with a lingering heat.
Behind me was the bar, though I was here for lunch so there was no boozing. You can tell Taha Ismail is at work here with his well-laid out tinctures and bitters. He's one of the best in the business and it always shows through. Be sure to grab one of the specialty cocktails if you stop in.

Overall impressions: It's a great place to grab lunch, but I'm sure it's an even better place to go with friends and get your tequila going. WaPo said come for the drinks. I say go for the food. It's good, and it's a good value. You won't be sorry.
If you go, tell them you read about it on Pleasures of the Table!
Thanks for reading.

Monday, October 14, 2013

G - Mike Isabella's Tasting Room

G Tasting Room at Kapnos & G
2201 14th St. N.W. @ W
Washington, DC 20009
202-234-5000
.
How do you get a phone number like that? Geez. 
Guess it helps to the be The Man.
Mike Isabella is certainly riding high these days thanks to his successes at Graffiato, one of my favorite restaurants in DC.
Left to right - Elliot Drew, Mike Isabella, yours truly and James Horne. Missing from the picture is co-owner and GM Nick Pagonis and his brother/partner/Exec George Pagonis. We've worked together on several projects including Zaytinya (back when most of these folks were with Thinkfood Group) and Graffiato.
I had a free Saturday night, so Cheryl, Alex and I decided to spend a little quality time together over the tasting menu at G. During the day G is a sandwich shop attached to Kapnos. By night, it transforms into a very hip little section of the restaurant where you can enjoy some of the creativity that the chefs working here have.  It's separate from the main restaurant and there is an open kitchen where you can watch Elliot work his magic. The TV on the wall was showing Barbarella I think, the music was low, and the lights were high enough that I could get some good pictures. It's a pet peeve of mine....beautiful food and dim lighting don't make for good pictures.
We started out with the antipasti.
Some very nice charcuterie, arancini, crostini, frittata..
Buffalo mozzarella
and giardiniera...which kind of looked like a cannoli.
Nice looking food.
We had the supplement, which was fried blowfish, ruby shrimp, sepia, avocado and lemon. Nice little fried intermezzo.
There's my man Elliot working up a sweat in the kitchen. We arrived before the first scheduled seating so we pretty much had the place, and the chef, to ourselves.
Here's a formula Mike doesn't stray from: Perfect hand-made ravioli. These little pillows of tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth pasta were filled with sweet potato puree and topped with brown butter, maple sugar and pecans. My wife took a bite, closed her eyes, and said, "Mmmm. This tastes like Thanksgiving."
Macaroni with sausage gravy.
Art on a plate, with a photo bomb. This is the halibut with a romesco sauce wrapped in a leek. Very nice flavors. Not the little dots of charred scallion puree.
This was also very pretty, and cooked to perfection Lamb stracotto with root vegetables.
The texture was grand, but the flavor was lacking in that it wasn't the usual Isabella punch-in-the-tastebuds. I generally expect some more powerful seasoning/flavors from him and am rarely disappointed.
The desserts were fab though, and picked up right where they needed to. This was a chocolate layer cake with what tasted like mocha icing.
This is the sweet potato cheese cake with pecans. It was all that.


Last but not least, the gelato. This is from Rob at Dolcezza. Always great flavors and a texture that is remarkable. I believe this was cinnamon with candied pretzel pieces if I remember correctly. 
Final words? Great meal. Definitely recommend giving the tasting menu here a shot. Not only is the meal good, entertaining, and pretty, it's only $40.00/pp.
If you stop by, tell the crew you read about it on Pleasures of the Table!
Thanks for reading.

Kapnos on Urbanspoon

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Top 10 Things I Put In My Mouth in 2011

As 2011 sputters to a close, it's time for a little retrospection of what has come to pass.  I've done some serious dining.  Some of the food I had was so good that I actually get misty when I describe it to people.  Some of it, not so much.
What I've assembled here are the top ten dishes I had the presence of mind to photograph this year.  If you click on the pictures they will expand to show you the big shot.  Where applicable, I've posted a link to the blog entry giving you more details.
Strangely enough, I went through and picked out my favorites from all the items I shot pictures of in 2011 and they were all in fairly distinct categories.  I didn't have to choose between favorites in the same category, which is nice. 
Let's start with dessert first:

Best Dessert 

RJ Cooper, owner and chef of Rogue 24, sent this to our table towards the end of our 24-course tasting menu.  The flavor combination here was astounding.  Everyone in our party gushed.

Best Freebie on the Table 
This is the truffled pop-over from Kevin Sbraga's eponymous restaurant in Philly.  Crispy, tender, flaky, warm, and stinking of truffles.  Don't get me started.

Best Counter Service Chicken 
Outstanding Peruvian chicken is hard to find.  A lot of it is good, but there are only a couple that are superlative.  Super Chicken is the winner in the DMV.  The customer service is great, the sides are not an after-thought as they are in most other places like this, and the chicken is so good it makes you drop the knife and fork and pick it up with your hands.

Best Appetizer....by far 
Fiola,  Fabio Trabocchi's restaurant in DC, is a quiet return to some upper-end dining.  The bar can get lively, but I think of this place as a temple to this dish.  This is all I want when I go there.  Fois Gras, perfectly seared, over a buttery brioche.  There was some fruity element and a balsamic glaze.  This is not on the menu anymore, but I'm sure there will be another iteration of it there soon.

Best Pasta
The person who created this occupies 20% of my top 10.  Chef Mike Isabella.  The is the sweet corn stuffed agnolotti which he was showcasing when the restaurant first opened.  I've posted twice about this restaurant.  The first was here.

Best Pizza.  Ever. 
It doesn't matter who I'm with or what else we're having:  If I'm at Graffiato after 5:00pm I have to order one of the Countryman Pizzas.  Here is a link to the second post I did about this restaurant when I had the pleasure of trying the tasting menu.

Best Comfort Food 
Comfort food doesn't have to be Mac n' Cheese.  That's American comfort food.  Other cultures have comfort food too, and it doesn't have to be full of fat and cheese.  Not that I'm knocking fat and cheese, but I loves me a #12 at Pho 75 on Rockville Pike.  I checked my stats on Foursquare and Yelp, and I've been here, for this dish, over 40 times in 2011.  Crazy.  My neighbors and I live 10+ miles from this place, but we run into each other there.  We like it that much.

Best Side Dish
I'm not sure how else to describe the Palak Chaat dish properly. Vikram Sunderam pulls together many flavor and creates this wonder at Rasika.  I could go there, have a plate of this, and leave satisfied. 

Best Cheese Course 
I miss this dish, and the man who created it, Roberto Donna.  I'm hoping to see him back at work somewhere soon.
  The Budino Parmiggiano.  This was a different presentation than the one in my original post, but it made a better picture.  Sublime.

Best Home Cookin' Feature 
As readers of my blog know, I sometimes take on a home cooking project and post about it.  This was the tastiest adventure of the year.  Shrimp and Grits, using a recipe posted by RJ Cooper on StarChefs.  I made it for a party my wife was attending and this was the test run.  Salty/creamy with layers of acid and flavor.  One of my best, if I do say so myself.

It was a good year for food and restaurants in the DMV.  2012 should prove exciting as well.  Please be sure to stay tuned for more posts on this and my other blog, POSmelson where I post information about the issues, tools, tricks, and technology behind and involving restaurants.  As always, your comments, forwards, retweets, and emails are appreciated.
See you next year.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Graffiato Revisited...Hitting the Tasting Menu

I am usually in a hurry when I eat at Graffiato.  Nothing to do with the restaurant, just that I'm usually down in that part of town when I've got something planned, like a concert or a movie.  This night the only thing on my agenda was to have a good dinner with some colleagues and business partners.  I'm glad I made the time.
 We started with some cocktails, then moved to our table upstairs.  The place was absolutely packed with Caps and Flyers fans getting their pre-game on.  
Everyone at the table decided that the tasting menu was the way to go.  
 The first plate out, other than some bread with the famed Pepperoni Sauce, was the charcuterie selection.  A great selection of different meats from the Meat Bar upstairs.

This is brocollini with a tasty sauce and some gorgonzola cheese.

This is the bone marrow.  It came out towards the end, but It was so pretty I moved it up in the picture order.  Think clams casino made with bone marrow instead of clams.  Not as heavy as you'd expect, but light, citrusy and crisp.


Surprise winner of the night?  Absolutely!
Brussel Sprouts!  Sauteed with bacon and drizzled with maple syrup.  Throw some cheese on there for good measure.  These were FAB!  My wife might even eat these if I could get the recipe.
Chef Mike has a penchant for making pillow-shaped pasta filled with something seasonal and ridiculously good.  Tonight was not an exception.  Here we have pasta filled with butternut squash and roasted chestnuts in a brown butter sauce.  The corn-filled pasta he had a couple of months ago was hard to top, but this is an equally tasty dish.
This is the hand-cut spaghetti.  It was light and the tomato/herb flavor was explosive.  Not what you'd expect.  One of the guys at my table couldn't stop talking about it.
Fresh black truffles, gnocchi, and cream.
What else needs to be said?
Speaking of truffles, we had to, just HAD to have a Countryman Pizza.  No trip to Graffiato is complete without it.  Fontina, truffles, and a sunny-side up egg.
The Cesar with cream cheese croutons is always fun.  The salad itself it just a plain, tasty salad, however, watching someone bite into one of the croutons is always entertaining.  You're not getting what you expect.

Potato salad...it was only lacking in comparison to the rest of the outstanding dishes we tried.  Anywhere else you'd say, "Damn, that's some fine potato salad."  Here, the bar is a little higher.
Pork belly.   Crispy on the outside, tender and porky on the inside.
Last, but not least, roasted wild boar.  Very little modification to the flavor.  Wild Pig, just as you'd expect.

All-in-all, a great time.  We didn't even make it to dessert.  The gild has not fallen off the lilly at this restaurant.  As is the case, some places start out great-guns, then fall prey to cutting corners.  I haven't had a hint of that here.  The service actually improves as it matures.  Despite all the TV shows, magazine interviews and charity events that he attends, you're still very likely to see Chef Mike pushing plates at the expo line, which is admirable in these days of celeb chefs who rarely set foot inside their own restaurants.

Would I go back?  This was probably my 6th or 7th time eating here.  Whenever someone calls me asking for a recommendation for a restaurant, which happens frequently, Graffiato is at the top of my list for a place where you don't have to dress up, you can spend a little or a lot, and the food is exceptional.  Do I recommend the tasting menu?  Hell yes.  If you saw something in my post that looked exceptional, let your server know and they'll likely be able to arrange having it included in your meal.

If you go, tell them you read about it on Pleasures of the Table.
Thank you for reading.

Graffiato on Urbanspoon